A brief history of ‘osechi ryōri,' Japan's edible year-end tradition
In addition to wordplay, color and shape often determine the reason why certain foods are part of Japan’s New Year holiday menu.
Here’s how it goes in Japan around this time: once Black Friday winds down, the full-on year-end hustle kicks in, called “shiwasu” — think professors running around like their hair’s on fire. It's all about tying up loose ends: clearing debts, finishing projects, and prepping for the new year. Food service goes into overdrive too, with Christmas cakes for Dec. 25 and osechi ryōri, the traditional New Year’s meal.
Back in the '60s, during my first New Year in Japan, I found myself in a Shikoku kitchen with the Andoh family, learning how to make osechi. These dishes were nothing like the holiday food I grew up with in the States — everything felt unfamiliar yet exciting. Turns out, tradition can be a wild ride.
